Things to Do in South Koh Samui: Laem Sor, Thong Krut, Taling Ngam and the Quiet Coast

The south of Koh Samui is where the island slows down. Most of the things to do in south Koh Samui are small and local: a golden chedi at the edge of the sea, fishing piers where longtails leave for Koh Tan and Pig Island, seafood lunches looking across to the islands, and sunsets behind the Five Islands from Taling Ngam. There are no malls and very little nightlife.

Our catamaran boards at Bang Kao Pier on this coast, so our crew drives the south road most mornings. This guide covers the stops we think are worth your time, how to get around without a walkable strip, how long to give the area and who should stay here instead of Chaweng or Lamai.

Quick facts

Area	The south and south-west coast, roughly Hua Thanon and Na Mueang in the east to Bang Kao, Thong Krut, Taling Ngam and Phang Ka bay in the west
Roads	Route 4170 follows the south coast and joins the main ring road (Route 4169)
Good for	Temples, seafood, boat trips to Koh Tan and Pig Island, sunsets, quiet stays
Not good for	Nightlife, dinners on foot, swimming at low tide
Getting around	Car, scooter or a driver booked by your hotel. Few songthaews pass
Time needed	One full day by car for the main stops, plus a boat day if you want the islands
Boats to the islands	Longtails and speedboats from Thong Krut; the Samui Journey catamaran from Bang Kao Pier

Things to do in south Koh Samui at a glance

Laem Sor Pagoda

Laem Sor is the picture most people have of the south: a chedi covered in golden tiles, standing right on the shoreline with the sea behind it. It sits near the southern tip of the island, a short drive west of Bang Kao, inside the grounds of Wat Laem Sor.

The site is older than it looks. Local temple histories say the first chedi was built on a hill around 1907 from blocks of cut coral stone, to hold relics brought from Sri Lanka. Lightning damaged it in 1967, and the chedi you see now was built later at its present spot by the sea. Look for the two guardian giants at the entrance and the small boat-shaped hall in front, where devotees leave model boats.

• Entry: reported free, with daytime opening of roughly 08:00–17:00. Check locally.
• Dress: shoulders and knees covered, no beachwear, and don’t climb on the chedi for photos.
• Swimming: the beach beside it is shallow and lined with casuarina trees. Come for the view, not a swim.
• Light: late afternoon makes the gold glow. Midday is harsh and hot underfoot.

Thong Krut: the pier for Koh Tan and Pig Island

Thong Krut is a small fishing village in a shallow bay on the south-west coast, looking straight across to Koh Tan. Longtail boats and speedboats leave from the village pier for Koh Tan and Koh Madsum, better known as Pig Island. The crossing usually takes about 15–25 minutes, depending on the boat and the sea.

There is not much to the village itself: a road of houses, a few shops, the pier and a row of seafood restaurants along the water. That is the appeal. Come for lunch, watch the boats, and decide on the spot if you want to go out.

Hiring a longtail from Thong Krut

• Agree everything first: the price, which islands, and the total time, before you step on board.
• Ask about safety kit: life jackets for everyone, and snorkel gear if you want it.
• Bring cash: Pig Island charges independent visitors a small landing fee. Read our Pig Island rules before you go.
• Watch the tide: the bay is very shallow, and at low tide the sea pulls back a long way. Boatmen work around it, so be flexible on times.
• Pick calm days: a longtail sits low and feels every wave. On a windy day, wait.

Longtail, speedboat or a full boat day?

Both are fair choices. A longtail is the cheapest way to get a few hours at Koh Tan on your own terms. If you would rather have lunch, snorkel gear, the island fee and transport handled, a full boat day does that.

Bang Kao: a working village bay

Bang Kao is the stretch of south coast between Laem Sor and the villages further east. It is a residential, working area, with a wide shallow bay, fishing boats and a few small resorts. Our catamaran guests board at Bang Kao Pier after their hotel pickup. Other visitors usually pass through on the way to Laem Sor, which is only a few minutes’ drive away.

Don’t plan a beach day here. The water is very shallow for much of the day, and the shore is muddy in places. It is a good place to see the south as locals live it, and a quiet base if you have your own transport.

Taling Ngam and the Five Islands sunset

Taling Ngam, on the south-west side, is the most rural part of the coast: coconut palms, a small fishing community and a few resorts, several of them on the hillside. Offshore you can see the Five Islands (Koh Si Koh Ha), the limestone rocks where swiftlets nest. At sunset they turn into dark shapes against the sky, which is why people drive across the island to watch it here.

The beach is shallow, with stony sections and few facilities. Bring water shoes and check the tide before you plan a swim.

Lunch at Baan Suan Lung Khai

The best-known table in the area is Baan Suan Lung Khai, a garden restaurant on a coconut plantation in Taling Ngam that is listed in the MICHELIN Guide. It serves southern Thai set menus built on local seafood, such as blue swimming crab and grilled prawns. The guide lists it as open for lunch only, around 11:00–14:00, and says reservations are required, so call ahead.

Phang Ka bay

At the south-west tip of the island, Ao Phang Ka is a small, square-ish bay with a few hotels and not much else. Travel guides describe the snorkelling as best towards the southern end of the bay. It is a short drive down a lane through the trees. On a calm morning near high tide it is one of the more peaceful swims on Samui. At low tide, and after wind, it is far less inviting. Bring your own mask, and don’t expect a reef like the one at Koh Tan.

The south-east loop: Hua Thanon, Wat Khunaram and Hin Ta Hin Yai

If you drive the south from Lamai, three stops fit naturally on the way.

• Hin Ta and Hin Yai: the Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks at the south end of Lamai. Stalls on the path sell kalamae, a sticky coconut sweet. It gets crowded from late morning, so go early.
• Hua Thanon: a long-established Muslim fishing village with painted wooden boats pulled up on the sand and a local fish market. Dress modestly.
• Wat Khunaram: on Route 4169, home to the body of Luang Pho Daeng, a monk who died in meditation in 1973 and sits upright in a glass case. Behave as you would in any temple.

Inland from here are Namuang Waterfall and the Secret Buddha Garden in the hills. Both are covered in our list of things to do in Koh Samui.

Where to eat seafood in the south

The south has no restaurant strip. Instead, there are seafood places by the water and small local kitchens along the road.

• Thong Krut waterfront: several seafood restaurants face Koh Tan across the bay. Fish, prawns and crab are usually displayed on ice. Ask the price by weight before you choose, and ask how it will be cooked.
• Baan Suan Lung Khai, Taling Ngam: the MICHELIN-listed lunch spot above. Book ahead.
• Ging Pagarang (also written King Pakarang): a family-run beach restaurant on the south-west coast road, listed by Lonely Planet for Samui-style seafood such as sea-algae salad with crab. It keeps daytime hours, and recent reviews are mixed on price, so check it is open before you drive out.
• Hua Thanon: small local curry shops near the fish market. Look for kua kling and sour gaeng som with fish.

Sunset spots in the south

The south coast faces the sea to the south, and the west end of it faces the sunset. Taling Ngam beach, with the Five Islands on the horizon, is the classic spot. The restaurants at Thong Krut give you a sunset with dinner. Phang Ka bay is quieter still. Laem Sor is better in the hour before sunset than at sunset itself, when the light on the gold is softest. Bring insect repellent for the evening.

Getting around the south

• No walkable centre: the sights are spread along roughly 20–25 km of coast road. You need wheels.
• Taxis: there are very few waiting on the south coast. Ask your hotel to book one, and agree the fare for the return trip before you set off.
• Songthaews: the shared pickups run mainly on the ring road and are thin on the south coast road, especially after dark.
• Car or scooter: a car is the comfortable option. To ride a scooter you legally need a motorcycle licence and should wear a helmet. Check your travel insurance covers it.
• From the airport and Chaweng: Thong Krut is about 25–30 km from the airport. Allow about 40–60 minutes by car from Chaweng, depending on traffic.

How long to spend

One full day by car covers the main things to do in south Koh Samui. A route that works: Hin Ta and Hin Yai and Wat Khunaram in the morning, Laem Sor before lunch, lunch at Thong Krut or Taling Ngam, an afternoon swim at Phang Ka if the tide is high, then sunset at Taling Ngam.

Add a separate boat day for Koh Tan and Pig Island. Doing both on the same day is possible with a short longtail trip, but it gets rushed.

Who should stay in the south, and who shouldn’t

It suits: couples and repeat visitors who want quiet, long stays, people who like cooking or eating local, and travellers planning more than one boat day. The sunsets are a real bonus.

It does not suit: first-timers who want nightlife and restaurants on foot, families who need a swimming beach at all tides, and anyone who doesn’t want to depend on taxis or a scooter. If that sounds like you, read where to stay in Koh Samui and look at Lamai, Bophut or Choeng Mon.

Season counts too. In the north-east monsoon, roughly mid-October to January, the east coast at Chaweng and Lamai takes the brunt of the wind, and the south-west is often calmer on the beach. Boat trips still depend on the open sea, though. Our best time to visit Koh Samui guide has the month-by-month detail, and our guide to the best beaches in Koh Samui compares the coasts.

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